If you detect an oil leak from the front, middle or rear of the engine on one of the models listed below, it’s probable that the cast aluminum engine block may be porous in spots. To correct the problem, seal the leak with J-B Weld or 3-Bond-coated sealing bolts, depending on the location of the leak.
Applicable Models:
• 1998-2003 Accord V6;
• 1999-2003 Odyssey; and
• 2003 Pilot.
Tool Information:
• VTEC System Test Tool, P/N 07AAJ-PNAA100; and
• Adapter Hose, P/N SUNAT77.
Note: For some problems, the VTEC system test tool can be used to pressure-check the engine block for oil leaks. The tool consists of a gauge with a regulator, hose and coupler. See Fig. 4.
Required Materials:
• J-B Weld, P/N 8265-S (commercially available)
• Powdered Leak Detector, P/N 20165 (Kent Industries, 800-654-6333)
Parts Information:
• Timing Belt Adjuster Pulley Bolt (except 2003 Accord V6), P/N 14551-P8A-999;
• Timing Belt Adjuster Pulley Bolt (2003 Accord V6 only), P/N 14551-RCA-A01;
• Engine Side Mount Bracket Bolt, P/N 95801-10085-99;
• Transmission Mounting Bolt (two required), P/N 95701-12070-99.
Repair Procedure:
Most engine oil leaks can be seen when you disassemble the suspected area. But if you want to pinpoint the exact location of the leak, use a powdered leak detector (best for suspected bolt hole leaks) or do a pressure-test with the VTEC System Test Tool (best for suspected block porosity).
Leak Testing With a Powdered Leak Detector:
1. Clean off residual oil and grease from the engine with engine degreaser.
2. Disassemble the engine enough to expose the area of the leak.
3. Spray powdered leak detector on the area.
4. Reassemble the engine, start it and run it for about five minutes.
5. Shut off the engine and inspect the leak area. Once you find the leak, proceed to “Confirming the Leak” section, and use the chart to determine whether to follow Repair Procedure A or Repair Procedure B.
Leak Testing With VTEC System Test Tool:
1. Disconnect the breather hose connecting the front head cover to the air inlet tube. See Fig. 5.
2. Remove the oil pressure switch from the oil pump.
3. Screw the adapter of the VTEC tool into the oil pressure switch hole.
4. Connect the VTEC tool to shop air regulated to no more than 40 psi.
5. Brush soapy water on the suspected porous area (best for vertical surfaces) or fill the area with soapy water (best for a suspected leak in the engine valley).
If the area bubbles, you’ve found the leak. Proceed to “Confirming the Leak” section, and use the chart to determine whether to follow Repair Procedure A or Repair Procedure B.
Note: To fill an engine valley section with soapy water, plug the drain hole in the valley with a piece of tubing (P/N 36285-P8A-A00) around a 6 x 15 mm bolt. See Fig. 6.
6. After you pressure-test the block and make the needed repairs, pull fuse No. 11 (15A) from the driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box (to disable the ignition system), then crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds. This ensures the engine bearings are lubricated before you start the engine. After you crank the engine, reinstall the fuse.
7. If you can’t find the leak with this method, use the powdered leak detector.
Repair Procedure A:
1. Remove and discard the original bolt(s).
2. Install the appropriate coated bolt(s) (see Parts Information), and torque them as indicated:
• Timing Belt Adjuster Pulley Bolt: 33 lb.-ft. (44 Nm);
• Engine Side Mount Bracket Bolt: 33 lb.-ft. (44 Nm); and
• Transmission Mounting Bolts: 54 lb.-ft. (73 Nm).
3. Re-assemble the engine, start it and let it run for 20 minutes. Then shut it off, and confirm that the leak is gone.
Repair Procedure B:
1. Thoroughly clean the area to be patched. This is vital for good bonding of the adhesive.
2. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for preparing the JB Weld 8265-S adhesive.
3. Spread a generous amount of adhesive on the leak area and 1 to 2 inches surrounding it.
4. Reassemble the engine, making sure not to disturb the adhesive.
5. Let the adhesive set for at least 24 hours before you start the engine. This is vital because engine oil pressure will try to push through the repair.
6. If you pressure-tested the block, pull fuse No. 11 from the driver’s under-dash fuse/relay box to disable the ignition system. Then crank the engine for 10 to 15 seconds. This ensures that the engine bearings are lubricated before you start the engine. After you crank the engine, reinstall the fuse.
7. Start the engine, and let it run for 20 minutes. Then shut it off, and confirm that the leak is gone.
The engine may leak at any of six known areas. See Fig. 7). Confirm the leak with this chart, then repair it using Repair Procedure A or B.
Written by ALLDATA Editor Tom Purser and Technical/Marketing Writer Jeff Webster.
